Thursday, April 2, 2009


Dumani /Rakaposhi which is the local name, the shining wall, Rakaposhi lies half way of Nagar from Gilgit town on the right edge of the Karakorum highway at the left bank of Nagar River.

It is one o the magnificent peak in the world. The peak dominates the horizon and is constantly visible from the Karakorum highway, it looks so beautiful that the first ever glance at it inspires charms and lures an on looker to be in its abode, it is also one of the easy accessible peak being lying on the Karakorum highway.

Famous glacier valleys, like, Biro, Barpu, Bagrot and Pissan surround the peak, it has 3 faces to climb, from South east face biro glacier Goglot Goh, valley from North West Pissan glacier from west Ghulmet face which is a long route to reach to the main summit.

Technically it begins with ice and later on with rock steep and over hung walls, only easy from Juglot side from which several expeditions got on the summit.

In 1938 it was explored by British India with a German man R Campbell Scord who have scaled a small peak of Rrakaposhi group 6858m that was first attempt of Rakaposhi group from Juglot Nala.

The 2nd attempt was by RCF Schaumburg in 1946 –47 reached up to 6096m. RCF Schaumburg a famous explorer of Karakorum and Himalaya from British India.

It was 1954 the German Austrian climbers tried Mount Rakaposhi but they couldn’t find an easy route, in the same time another expedition from Cambridge University attempt a small peak ranging 6340m.

In 1958 British Pakistan combined expedition climbed Rakaposhi and valid the medal of Pride. Two of the members Gol Frost bite one has died, with hard injuries. It depends to the climbers climbing experiences and physical fitness to choose routs.

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